WINE TASTING: The Singular Wines of CLOS CENTEILLES
Minervois (Languedoc, Southern France)
Maximizing Minervois while reviving “lost” wines of the Languedoc
FRI. JUNE 11, 4-7 pm & SAT. JUNE 12, 3-6pm VINTAGES Belmont store

Patricia Boyer-Domergue
The wines of CLOS CENTEILLES epitomize the authentic, original wine mastery we have championed for years. The first time I visited Patricia Boyer-Domergue in Minervois, it was a revelation! How could southern French reds, known for their sturdy, rustic, yet satisfying charm, be so refined, elegant, complex, and most surprisingly, age-worthy? How could wines from Minervois lead me to draw comparisons to Barbaresco or Burgundy? Starting from my first trip to the La Liviniere zone within Minervois, it has been apparent that something special is going on at CLOS CENTEILLES. We had a simple lunch outside the cellar and tasted through multiple vintages going back to the early 90’s. Patricia has been cellaring a sizable collection of the estate’s wines over many vintages to demonstrate their potential for great complexity and age-worthiness. For several years we have been honored to obtain exclusive “direct from the cellar” releases of Campagne de Centeilles and Clos Centeilles to offer our customers. Our latest shipment is highlighted by a new white wine made from “lost” grape varieties, and a tremendously complex and fine 1991 Clos Centeilles from syrah, grenache noir, and mourvedre, expressing notes of mint, cured-meat, soy, and mushrooms, evoking the savory profile of an aged nebbiolo. Again we have to say that our primary goal is always to promote wines of great character that embody a singular, outstanding quality
, that truly express the land and traditions in an authentic manner. The wines of Clos Centeilles have that in spades.
2009 “C” de CENTEILLES Cotes du Brian Blanc $19.99 Debut release of this white wine from a new planting of old local grape varieties carefully selected to thrive in this terroir and combine for an exceptional wine! A blend of 25% Araignan Blanc, 30% Riveirenc Gris, 30% Riveirenc Blanc and 15% Grenache Gris. Orchard fruit flavors, rich and ripe, with an intriguing green almond skin finish. Calls to mind a cross between Manzanilla sherry and Arneis. Total production 300 cases.
2006 “C” de Centeilles $16.99 Blend of Picpoul Noir (90%) and Riveirenc Noir (10%) aged 12-18 mos in steel. “C de Centeilles is the accomplishment of the work of a lifetime, and of the will of its winemakers to restore the originality of Languedoc wine through ancient and almost lost grape varieties.” “C” de Centeilles offers aromas of raspberry, cherry, licorice and herbs. The supple tannins support its juicy fruit enhanced by a crisp acidity. Serve slightly chilled.
2006 Campagne de Centeilles Rouge $13.99 The classic Cinsault rouge that begins its bottled life as a lithe and lively red, and fleshes out over time. Clos Centeilles was the first estate dedicated to making an age-worthy wine from Cinsault, a notoriously difficult grape to cultivate, requiring a very specific set of conditions and constant vigilance. A delicious, fascinating wine at an unbeatable price!
1995 CLOS CENTEILLES Campagne de Centeilles $25
90% Cinsault. Can Minervois age? Winemaker Patricia Boyer-Domergue has long insisted that it can, and very well, thank you. This 1995 Minervois was imported for us directly from the estate’s cellar. This Campagne de Centeilles bottling is made primarily from Cinsault and the balance is Syrah. The color of the wine at this point is similar to the color of a traditio
nal Barolo -lighter garnet fading into brick. In the nose, the wine offers fine and complex aromas of baked cherries and plums, soy, bittersweet cocoa, beef consomme, mint, and green tea, seamless and fine in its aromatic complexity. On the palate, the wine is sublime; its silky texture washes over the palate with ethereal flavors of roasted cherry, grilled pit fruit, and amazingly powdery, bitter cocoa tannins.
1991 CLOS CENTEILLES “Clos Centeilles” $40 Special “Library Release” shipped directly from the cellar to VINTAGES. The estate’s top wine is a traditional blend of Mourvedre, Grenache noir, and Syrah planted in limestone. This wine is designed to mature gradually, evolving in compelling complexity over time. Drinks like an old Barolo, beautiful, elegant and lilting, yet firm and austere in structure with notes of mint, cured meat, soy and mushrooms. Vividly demonstrates the quality and aging potential of Minervois.